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BIG
ISLAND
THE
ORCHID ISLE
Welcome to the Big Island, also known as the Orchid
Isle. You most likely landed in either Hilo or Kona
which host the two primary airports on the island. Since
we can't begin our tour of our island at both places
at the same time we'll start this guide in Kona. For
those of you who landed in Hilo just flip ahead in our
magazine and start the guide from the Hilo region and
work your way frontward or backward. Before we begin
the tour let's all remember the phrase, "When in Rome
do as the Romans do." In Hawai`i this means driving
slowly, yielding for everyone, and showing aloha to
everyone you meet.
Three other items that your past fellow visitors have
informed me to remind you of are remembering to take
off your rings (newlyweds) and any loose jewelry before
going into the water; locking your cars even though
99.99 percent of the people in Hawai`i aren't thieves;
and the importance of using sun block even if you insist
on not needing it. My own haole (white person) motto
for sun block is, "You'll burn with it, you'll burn
worse without it!" With all that out of the way it's
now time to have some fun so hang loose... you're in
Hawai'i Nei now!
North
Kona
Located in the busiest and most widely known part of
the Big Island is the district of North Kona and the
seaside village of Kailua. Nestled in this busy-ness
are a few significant historical and cultural landmarks.
Beside the Kailua pier is Ahu`ena Heiau built in 1817.
This ancient temple built on a rock platform was dedicated
to patron spirits of learning, the arts, and healing.
King Kamehameha I also made his home here where he could
maintain control over boats entering and leaving the
bay. Kamehameha also monitored the farming pursuits
of his village from Ahu`ena. Also on Ali`i Drive is
Moku`aikaua Church. Built in the 1820's, this was the
first Christian church to be built by western missionaries.
Across the street is Hulihe`e Palace, a nineteenth century
vacation home to some of Hawai`i's monarchy. Hulihe`e
was built in 1838, and today serves as a museum open
daily to the public. Occasionally, throughout the week,
some youngsters can be seen in the courtyard under the
shade of giant banyan trees practicing hula under the
direction of a kumu hula (teacher of hula). Later in
the nineteenth century Kailua was a village that was
used primarily as a sea port for shipping cattle, coffee
and sugar off island. Most of the population of Kona
lived in the mountainside towns between Honaunau and
Holualoa along a stretch of road still called Mamalahoa
Highway. The town of Kailua, for the most part, had
always been a sleepy kind of village. Up until the early
1970's the population was no more than 700 people; today
the population of Kailua is around 40,000 and growing
rapidly.
Hulihe`e Palace with
Moku`aikaua Church in background |
Looking beyond the hustle and bustle of Kailua there
are many wonderful opportunities for dining, shopping
and tour experiences around the town. This district
of North Kona also hosts some of the Big Island's most
beautiful white sand beaches. A short drive north of
Honokohau Harbor on Queen Ka`ahumanu Highway are the
beaches of Makalawena and Mahai`ula which require a
short hike to get to. Easier to reach and also on Ali`i
Drive to the south are Kahalu`u Beach Park and Magic
Sands. There is ample parking at both of these popular
beaches and you don't have to hike to them.
Around these historical sights/sites are a whole host
of restaurants and shopping opportunities and hundreds
of visitor and local businesses keep the streets and
sidewalks around Kailua busy with activity throughout
the year. Cruise ships anchor offshore at Kailua Bay
and many tour and activity companies provide visitors
with lots of opportunities to sign up for hiking, sailing
cruises, snorkeling and scuba adventures.
Holualoa
Days pass slowly in the artists' retreat town of Holualoa,
almost like the gentle mountain breezes which waft their
way through the groves of coffee trees lining the slopes
of Mount Hualalai. Steeped in natural beauty and tradition,
this little mountainside coffee town blends a touch
of today's art with a passion for the simpler life of
the past. The village's many private galleries showcase
the works of many local artists in a wide array of mediums.
Make it a point to wander up for a visit to Holualoa,
only a fifteen-minute drive up the mountain.
South
Kona
There is, perhaps, no other region on the Big Island
shrouded in more history than the district of South
Kona. Whether it be the origins of Kona coffee, the
ancient Hawai`ian village setting of Pu`uhonua O Honaunau
(Place of Refuge) National Park, or the Painted Church
nestled in the hillside overlooking Kealakekua Bay,
the spot where the famous English explorer Captain Cook
met his fate, South Kona will keep the historically
minded visitor busy weaving their way through its network
of mountain roads.
Coffee first came to Kona in 1828 when the Reverend
Samuel Ruggles brought plant cuttings to Kealakekua.
The early Japanese farmers cultivated many of Kona's
first farms and engineered the system of milling and
processing this prized coffee.
Honaunau's Painted Church |
On highway 160 amidst coffee farms, and high on the
slopes above Kealakekua Bay, is the Painted Church,
where sometime between 1899 and 1904, Father John Velge
a Catholic missionary from Belgium painted images depicting
biblical scenes of heaven and hell on the interior walls
of the church. At the bottom of Napo`opo`o Road is Hikiau
Heiau at Kealakekua Bay, and a white stone monument
across the bay that marks the spot where Captain James
Cook was killed in 1779.
A lower coastal road connects Kealakekua Bay to Pu'uhonua
O Honaunau (Place of Refuge) National Park. In the early
years of Hawai`ian civilization it was to the Place
of Refuge that people who broke kapu (sacred laws) would
attempt to flee. If the kapu violator could reach this
sanctuary his life would be spared. Some of the features
at the park are loko (ancient fish ponds), hale (thatched
roof structures that served as homes), heiau (temples)
and ancient rock walls. Visitors are usually provided
with live demonstrations of ancient Hawai`ian crafts
such as the building of canoes and tikis.
Ka'u
The actual place where Polynesians first set foot in
Hawai`i will always remain a mystery, but it was probably
somewhere near the southern tip of the Big Island. This
area seems like a probable place because their approach
would have been from the south, where all of Polynesia
lies. When sailing north, the Big Island would be the
first island they would have seen, and South Point would
have been the nearest landfall. Aside from the logic
of such a choice, there is archaeological evidence supporting
the supposition of a landing near Ka Lae, as the Hawai`ians
call the southernmost tip of the island of Hawai`i (and
of all fifty states). Excavation of lava tubes that
were used as shelters near Ka`iliki`i and Wai`ahukuni,
villages four miles northwest of the Ka Lae, indicate
people were using them by A.D.750. There is other evidence
that indicates people first were in the area as early
as A.D. 200.
The cliff near South Point Park is a common mooring
place for modern day fishermen who find these waters
a rich resource. From the precipice the drop is about
forty feet to the ocean's surface, but the cliff base
goes down another thirty feet below the surface of the
water. Ladders, hung to make access to the boats easier,
swing freely in the air just above the sea. The cliff
is deeply undercut. The water is so clear the bottom
can be seen plainly. For some there might be a temptation
to leap into the cool water, and climb back up the ladder.
It looks inviting, but don't do it. A swift current
runs along the shore. The flow will carry anyone in
the water straight out to sea. It is called the Hala`ea
Current, named for a chief who was carried off to his
death.
One of South Point's most famous scenic spots is Mahana
Beach, also called Green Sands Beach because of its
distinctive golden green color. The grains of green
sand are olivine or call it peridot if you wish although
not much of the sand is truly of gem quality. They are
apparent as green flecks in the raw lava stones used
to build the columns and walls of the Jagger Museum
at Kilauea's Volcano National Park. As lava reached
the coast, erosional forces, and the specific gravity
of the stones, perhaps are responsible for the accumulation
of such a large quantity of the granules that produced
the green sand beach.
Up the coast from South Point's main hub of activity,
Na`alehu town, and heading towards Volcanoes National
Park you will pass by Punalu'u black sand beach and
later a sign marking the road to Pahala. The short drive
to Pahala is worth the excursion. There are the remains
of the old Pahala Theater as well as a community that
is now supported by macadamia nut farming as well as
scores of small family-owned coffee farms springing
up on the lush hillsides. Many of the homes in the village
date back to the early 20th century and include the
two-story plantation manager's home, which is now a
museum open to the public. Pahala is a great place to
gain perspective into what life was like on a sugar
plantation a hundred years ago. Take time also to drive
into the lush tropical Wood Valley and past a Buddhist
temple also located near Pahala.
Volcano,
Hawai`i
Lava entering the sea |
Welcome to Madame Pele's dwelling. She is goddess of
the volcano. Volcanoes National Park has one entrance,
off Route 11, 30 miles south from Hilo or 95 miles east
from Kona. The park is open 24 hours a day all year
round. When you enter the park during daytime hours
you will receive a park brochure at the entrance station.
If you enter the park after hours you may pick up the
brochure at the Kilauea Visitor Center which is located
a quarter mile from the entrance on Crater Rim Drive.
Visitors are encouraged to take the time to carefully
read the park regulations and guidelines. The volcano
fumes that exist in the park may create a health hazard
for pregnant women, infants and people with heart or
respiratory problems. People at-risk should avoid stopping
at the Sulphur Banks, Halema`uma`u Crater and other
areas where volcanic fumes are present.
The endangered nene (Hawai`ian
goose) |
Overnight trips in the park require a backcountry permit
that can be obtained at no charge at the Kilauea Visitor
Center. Once inside the park enjoy the 25-minute movie
on eruptions shown hourly at the Visitor Center. Other
attractions are the Thomas A. Jaggar Museum three miles
inside the park along Crater Rim Drive, the Volcano
House, Thurston Lava Tube, and many scenic vistas. Depending
on the timing of your visit you might have a chance
to see the volcano erupting. A 45-minute drive to the
end of Chain of Craters Road and a short hike will get
you to the most recent lava flow area. The new coastline
is unstable and can collapse into the sea at anytime
without warning. Obey all park signs. Do not enter any
closed areas! The park also offers many other hiking
opportunities which are mapped out in the park brochure.
A reminder: please drive slowly and carefully while
touring the park so as not to hit the nene, Hawai`i's
endangered state bird. It is also known as the Hawai`ian
goose.
Puna
and Pahoa
For visitors who want to experience the true feeling
of old Hawai`i, Pahoa village holds the key to this
untouched past. First a rugged sawmill town, then a
sugar plantation town and also a crossroad on the old
railroad, Main Street Pahoa has maintained its western-
style storefronts and wood boardwalks in a charming
turn-of-the-century Victorian style. The town hosts
many quaint shops from surf to curio, and restaurants
that span the ethnic flavors of the globe. Also located
in Pahoa is the Akebono Theater, Hawaii's oldest theater.
The Puna countryside is filled with natural wonders
like the Lava Tree State Park, steam vents, groves of
papaya trees and black sand beaches along the rugged
coast.
Hilo
and East Hawai`i
On your trek to Hilo, take a right on Kamehameha Highway
at the Intersection of Pauahi and Kamehameha Highway.
If you look to the right just past the Chevron gas station
on the corner of Pauahi and Kamehameha Highway you will
see a statue of Kamehameha the Great, which stands on
his father's land. Nestled among royal palms and behind
the statue is Wailoa with its winding waterways and
a fish pond.
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Some of Hawaii's exotic
fruit left to right: mango, star fruit and rambutan
Quiet Coconut Island
in Hilo Bay
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Adding to the old Hawai`i feeling is the Hilo Farmer's
Market which is held every Wednesday and Saturday in
downtown Hilo. While you walk around it'll be fun to
imagine what the city was actually like around the early
1900's.
An easy-to-find waterfall is Rainbow Falls, located
inland along the Wailuku River at the north end of town.
Follow the road running alongside the river to the park
where you can see one of the area's most frequented
sights. If you're lucky you will see a rainbow spanning
the falls.
Upon leaving Hilo the drive north takes you over scenic
gorges that were once crossed by cane-hauling trains
in the heyday of sugar cane production. The cascading
waterfalls and the river mouths under the extensive
system of bridges on the road leading north up the Hilo
Coast are definitely awesome sights. On this drive north
is Onomea Bay located along a 4-mile coastal scenic
route. The lush ravines and botanical gardens are brilliantly
picturesque along this coastal road and are well worth
the detour.
`Akaka Falls State Park and the village of Honomu can
be reached by taking Hwy. 220 turning off from the main
route, Hwy. 19 north. Once you reach the park a short
paved trail will take you past a network of smaller
waterfalls and colorful tropical foliage to the lookout
where you'll see the 422-foot `Akaka Falls plunging
to a pool below.
Honoka`a
and Hamakua
In the old days, during the early part of the twentieth
century, it was quite a trip to cross the deep coastal
ravines before reaching the town of Honoka`a, which
was the third- largest city in the territory of Hawai`i.
From Hilo, vacationers and soldiers on leave from Uncle
Sam's army would travel up the Hamakua and Hilo coast
to Honoka`a where night life was king. A dance hall
was built above the Botelho building, where the first
car dealership in the town was located. That building
now hosts a curio and antique shop but one can easily
imagine what an average Friday night was like at the
Botelho in the 1940's. As Hawai`i's old theaters are
once again becoming popular, the citizens of Honoka`a
enjoy their own historic People's Theater. The doors
of the theater are opened for feature films every Friday,
Saturday and Sunday evening. If going to a movie is
not what you want to do on your Hawai`ian vacation,
go for the feeling of nostalgia which is definitely
present once you've found your seat inside the huge
old movie hall.
Waipi`o Valley plays
host to taro farms, waterfalls, and a beautiful
beach. The ride down is 4WD only or by foot. |
Outside of Honoka`a town heading north to Waipi`o Valley
the landscape changes dramatically. Legend has it that
it was in Waipi`o Valley, "the land of the falling water,"
that the great King Kamehameha, as a young boy, received
his leadership training and first learned to surf. Today,
family ohana ("houses"), still dot the area which is
separated by a river that leads into the open sea. Local
farmers and their families continue their way of life
farming taro, and fishing off the sandy shores of this
peaceful and remote valley floor.
Outside of Waipi`o Valley and Honoka`a town are other
early and small settlements of the Hamakua region, such
as Pa`auilo, Kukuihaele and Laupahoehoe. These towns
are all filled with a rich and local culture that happily
survives in this region of the Big Island.
Waimea
Between snow-capped Mauna Kea and the Kohala mountains,
the green hillsides of North Kohala roll under wispy
white clouds, and afternoon rainbows frequently stream
their way from the skies above Waimea. In this landscape
herds of grazing cattle can be seen meandering their
way through sloping pastures filled with cactus and
dry underbrush as Hawai`ian cowboys called paniolo still
ride horseback and work the range.
Ranching began in this region after King Kamehameha
appointed a young seaman named John Parker in 1815,
to hunt and shoot the herds of wild cattle whose population
had grown uncontrollably since their introduction to
Hawai`i in 1793. Parker, who accomplished his mission,
managed to domesticate a herd of his own before marrying
a Hawai`ian chiefess. The marriage helped Parker acquire
the land that he later used to found his 250,000-acre
ranch in 1847.
Today, the town of Kamuela, more often referred to
after its district name Waimea, is a town that is still
immersed in the ranching lifestyle. The brightly colored
Victorian houses and shops, tidy yards filled with flowers,
and the skeletal remains of wagons and wheels give visitors
the opportunity to see yet another aspect of the diversity
of cultures that exist in Hawai`i.
North
Kohala
Pololu & Valleys span
the north eastern shore of the Big Island. Unpassable
by car this land is accesible by foot only. |
Following highway 270 north visitors will encounter
a landscape filled with historical landmarks that include
the original King Kamehameha statue, Kalahikiola Church,
and Mo`okini Heiau which is regarded as the oldest pre-Western
contact temple of worship. King Kamehameha was believed
to have been born at Mo`okini in 1758. Also to be found
in the North Kohala region are the remnants of a once-thriving
sugar industry of the 1880's which is still visible
in the many old storefronts of Hawi and Kapa`au towns.
When you're done visiting these towns, Highway 270
will lead you through North Kohala's fertile pasture
lands, dense forests, and ultimately to Pololu Valley,
which offers one of the best scenic lookouts on the
island. If you plan to hike beyond Pololu be prepared
for a long trek and bring plenty of water and supplies.
The trails are narrow, steep and slippery, and should
not be hiked by amateur trailsmen. While driving along
the coastline of North Kohala remember that if the skies
are clear you may be able to catch a view of the island
of Maui looming on the other side of the `Alenuihaha
channel, which separates Maui from the Big Island. Between
the months of December and April visitors are almost
guaranteed a humpback whale sighting off the coast of
North Kohala.
Kohala
Coast
Pu`ukohola Heiau |
Almost always under bright sunny skies the Golden Kohala
Coast of the Big Island of Hawai`i has for years been
the tropical playground of not only ancient Hawai`ian
royalty but contemporary vacationers from around the
world. Many important historical sites are found along
the Kohala coast and the area also has one of America's
most highly-rated public beaches, Hapuna Beach State
Recreation Area. Hapuna's long white-sand beach, rolling
surf, clear skies, and accessibility make it a popular
destination for many island guests. Among the ebony
lava fields of the Kohala Coast landscape are several
world- renown championship golf courses. As seen from
a distance or from the air, the green fairways that
blanket this rugged terrain soften its landscape. Connecting
this forty-or- so-mile coastline is the ancient King's
Trail which was traveled by the ruling ali`i as well
as malo-clad runners who were responsible for transporting
pond-raised fish wrapped in ti leaves to the tables
of Hawai`ian royalty living down the coast in Kailua-Kona.
Today, the King's Trail passes through not only several
resort properties but also through Pu`ukohola Heiau
and scores of petroglyph fields.
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Top
5 Things To Do On Your Visit...
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1.
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Visit a Kona coffee farm
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2.
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Experience an active volcano at Volcanoes
National Park
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3.
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Taste fresh produce from a local Farmers
Market
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4.
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Visit a sacred Hawai`ian heiau
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5.
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Engage in your favorite activity... golf,
bike, swim, dive or surf
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Pu`ukohola, now a national park, was the last Hawai`ian
temple built during King Kamehameha's reign. Ancient
petroglyphs can be found at their most popular spot
near the King's Shops on Waikoloa Beach Drive. Along
a short trail, follow the signs that direct you to the
petroglyphs. Keep in mind that the preservation of these
fields depends on people staying on the trail while
viewing these ancient rock carvings/drawings. Enjoy
this part of ancient Hawaii while you wine, dine, shop,
golf, and are treated like royalty on the Kohala coast.
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