Coffee Times
No.73

Visitor Guide 2008

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Past Articles

Flora & Fauna

Hawaiian Cuisine

Kona Coffee

History & Culture

Island Life

Religion, Myth & Legend

KAUAI THE GARDEN ISLE

Aloha! Welcome to Kauai!
Touching down on Kaua`i, some people experience a sense that they've arrived at a spiritual place. Some claim that it is one of the planet's natural "power spots." Whatever that may mean to you, rest assured that you are in for a unique adventure, surrounded by Kaua`i's dramatic scenery. Ocean, sky, breeze, streams and rivers, vegetation, and mountains will all embrace and amaze you as you explore, meet new people, and find your own connection with the beautiful spirit of Kaua`i and its wonders.

Kaua`i is the most ancient of the Hawaiian Islands, having been formed some 5 million years ago by a volcano. Its majestic central peak, Mount Wai`ale`ale, is acclaimed as the "wettest spot on earth," and the rainwater flows down its verdant faces and converges to feed Kaua`i's five rivers. On a clear day, you may spot Wai`ale`ale as you fly into the airport in Lihu`e, the county seat of Kaua`i.

Plumeria

Before we take off, here are a few friendly bits of advice that may come in handy during your visit. First, be aware that many of Kaua`i's beaches, while beautiful, can be dangerous. Please heed the signs posted at them, and consult our excellent lifeguards about the safety conditions on any given day. The local safety motto for the beach is, "When in doubt, don't go out!" Second, whether you have a fair or darker complexion, be sure to apply (and reapply!) strong sun screen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays, even if you are going out in the sun for only a short time. Finally, "Drive with Aloha." What does this mean? Take it easy, let people merge, don't stop in the middle of roads or slow down way below the speed limits to admire the views or consult your map; smile, relax. That's why you came! As to pronouncing Hawaiian words the local people will appreciate your pronouncing them correctly-and they'll be happy to help you do so. This guide will give you the proper spelling (which includes two diacritical marks, the "ka-ha-kou" - macron, which indicates the vowel is a long one, and the "o-ki-na"- which indicates a glottal stop) of place names which will help in pronouncing them. We are a bit ahead of the times since the government and businesses are only very slowly changing to the correct spelling, e.g., some highway and street signs are correctly spelled; the older ones are not. We haven't separated the syllables with hyphens in this guide because they aren't part of the spelling, but you should use the two references to diacritical marks above as examples of how syllables are separated, and words then pronounced. Two words used for referring to direction are "mauka" - toward the mountain, and "makai" - toward the sea.

Note that the topography of the island allows for the only highway to roughly follow the contour of this island. When navigating the roads and asking long-time residents for directions it will be helpful to know the names of the highways and streets. Thus, from its beginning in Lihu`e until its end in the north, the road is called the Kuhio Highway. In the other direction, from Lihu`e till its end in the west, the road is called the Kaumuali`i Highway. The juncture in Lihu`e where the name change begins is at the intersection of Kuhio Highway, Rice Street, and Kaumuali`i Highway. Rice St. is the main street that leads to Kalapaki Bay and Nawiliwili Harbor. Since the major and only artery connecting the towns on Kaua`i is two-laned, please be careful while driving: don't make sudden stops; don't drive too slowly or too fast; don't make U-turns along any stretch of road (people have lost their lives in crashes in recent years as a result of the drivers making a U-turn).

Finally, because of Hawaii's fragile ecology, please watch what you transport from one island to another. Invasive species can be those which are present on one island but not on another.

Now let's start to enjoy the island. From the airport, there are two equally inviting options. We can explore the East Shore and then head up to the North Shore, or we can explore the South Shore and then cruise out to the West Shore. Each shore and corresponding mauka segment of Kaua`i contains its own unique natural and social environments, including special beaches, climates and vegetation, secret valleys, river mouths, cascading waterfalls, hiking trails, as well as dining, shopping, strolling, and resort experiences.

The East Shore

The East Shore of Kaua`i spans Lihu`e to the outer edges of Kapa`a Town and is the most densely populated segment of the island. It offers you everything from the more mundane activities of shopping or dining, to the contemplation of river valleys and ancient Hawaiian temples (heiau). Where to start? Since all flights touch down in Lihu`e, we'll begin there.

At the airport our attention is immediately caught by Ha`upu (also called "Hoary Head"), a massive round-backed peak to the south. Ha`upu more or less marks the southern border of the East Shore. Kaua`i Community College on Kaumuali`i Highway is across from it. Residents note that clouds covering the top of Ha`upu is a sign of impending rain, which usually means a short, refreshing light sprinkle. As you leave the Lihu`e airport, you have three choices for direction. Going straight will take you into Lihu`e town, left will lead you toward Nawiliwili Harbor and then into town if you wish, and right will take you towards the North Shore. Let's first go straight into Lihu`e town, which was the earliest business center on the island and still serves as the civic and commercial heart of Kaua`i. Wilcox Hospital, the main post office, Kukui Grove Shopping Center, and the main offices of several banks are located here. The one place in Lihu`e we encourage everyone to visit is the Kaua`i Museum (on Rice Street). This is a great starting point for visitors to learn about the history and culture of the Garden Island. Once you have visited the Museum, head to the Nawiliwili Harbor area. Here you'll find Kalapaki Beach, where locals and tourists mix together for sun, swimming, and surfing. Kalapaki is known locally as a good beginner's beach for surfers, and it also serves as a home base for several Hawaiian outrigger paddling teams. A pleasant walkway hugs the beachfront here on resort property, and at the resort or nearby malls you'll discover several places to dine or stop for a relaxing drink while you look out across the bay. You might also see one of the cruise liners that tour the islands docked in the harbor. At the first left after Kalapaki, on Hulemalu Road, heading toward the harbor, the narrow winding road will take you up to Alekoko (Menehune) Fishpond outlook. Archaeologists say it was constructed about 1,000 years ago. Go back to Nawiliwili Road, turn left and you are a minute away from the Kukui Grove Shopping Center where you'll find national chain stores-department, books, home improvement, wholesale-as well as many local establishments.

As you leave the Lihu`e area heading east on Kuhio Highway, set your sights on the Wailua River. If you want to view the Wailua Falls, however, turn mauka just past Wilcox Hospital where the highway dips. Back on Kuhio Highway, after passing through the old plantation town of Hanama`ulu you'll soon see the Wailua (municipal) Golf Course after which keep an eye out for a turn-off to Lydgate Beach Park, a well-maintained haven which provides: grassy fields; pavilions; protected swimming areas; Kamalani Playground whose structures were built by community volunteers; and one segment of a coastal walk/bike path which will be several miles long upon completion. The area at the mouth of the Wailua River has since ancient times been a highly sacred place, not only for Hawaiians, but also for Polynesians in general. Seven heiau (temple sites) are found beginning near the river mouth, and all the way deep inland from there. These sites are still used for sacred purposes and are protected by law; we are called to respect them by neither taking anything from, nor leaving anything in, them.

Wailua River

The Wailua area, although largely residential, provides opportunities for residents and visitors alike to enjoy many of the views and activities which Kauai has to offer. There is kayaking or canoeing up the Wailua river and viewing `Opaeka`a Falls which is on the right when you drive up Kuamo`o Road. Just across from the Falls a road winds steeply down to Kamokila Hawaiian Village, a replica of a native Hawaiian village. There is hiking: further up Kuamo`o Road, between mile markers 2 and 3, look for a trail on the right and park on the side of the road; the trail snakes up to the top of Sleeping Giant (the profile of the mountain as seen from Kapa`a town). It is an easy hike with a very rewarding view from the top. At the end of Kuamo`o Road is the Keahua Forestry Arboretum. This fine nature sanctuary provides a quiet refuge for resting, hiking, swimming and simply enjoying Kaua`i's clean air. Returning to the main highway, the resort property at the corner of Kuamo`o Road and Kuhio Highway is what used to be the Coco Palms, long famous as Kaua`i's first resort hotel, one which gave guests a truly Hawai`i flavor with local staff and Hawai`ian entertainment, and which later also drew Japanese visitors because of its connection to Elvis Presley and "Blue Hawaii" which was filmed here. Heavily damaged by Hurricane `Iniki in 1992, its reconstruction remains in limbo. Across the highway (a two-lane road in this segment) from the hotel is Wailua Beach where the waters can be very calm or where white-capped waves roil the water, or where waves are surfable, depending on the time of year.

Past the Coco Palms and Wailua Beach, on the makai side of the highway is another resort area and the famous coconut grove on the mauka side. Next are, in quick succession, the towns of Waipouli and Kapa`a, each of which has restaurants with menus specializing in one or another of the variety of cuisines found on the island; each town also has inviting gift shops, grocery stores, cafés, and a range of lodging alternatives. You will also find many companies offering various types of nature-based activities such as kayaking trips, snorkeling, zip line adventures, or other activities such as tours of spots where movies were filmed , or an evening at a Hawaiian lu`au. These formerly small and somewhat sleepy towns have undergone much commercial and residential development in recent years, so be prepared for traffic congestion and busy-ness.

The North Shore

Kilauea lighthouse

Where does the North Shore of Kaua`i begin? Some say it begins as soon as you drive beyond Kapa`a's outer limits and escape congestion to arrive at Kealia Beach, popular with experienced boogey boarders and short boarders. Something dramatic happens when you arrive in the area: the town landscape gives way to an ocean panorama and mountain vistas. There is a promise of lush verdant mountains and valleys and waterfalls, of white sandy beaches that stretch around bays, of azure oceans meeting the horizon, of gentle mists and rainbows. Wherever the North Shore technically begins, it is the most lush and soothingly balmy region of Kaua`i and its beauty is epitomized by the Napali coast. After Kealia you will approach the community of Anahola. You won't see much of the ocean on the long stretch of highway between Anahola and Kilauea, but one of our favorite pastimes is to turn off the main road onto smaller side roads that head towards the ocean. Often a trailhead or a breathtaking view awaits at the end of these smaller roads.

Kilauea, a former plantation town, is mainly a bedroom community, but it is where we find a beautiful lighthouse, built in 1913. It marks the northernmost point of the main Hawaiian Islands and originally guided boats traveling to and from the Far East. It is part of the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. The view from the grounds is stunning and includes Moku`ae`ae Island bird sanctuary which is just offshore. If you're lucky, you may see porpoises frolicking and, in season, whales breaching and the Newell's Shearwater chicks in their ground nests and a monk seal sunning itself on the rocks below. You can take a self-guided tour, bird watch, and enjoy an educational stop at the visitor center where you can borrow a pair of binoculars.

Between Kilauea town and the Princeville resort development, there is a very nice beach, `Anini Beach, which is great for windsurfing, for walking the beach, for picnicking and playing on the large grassy park area and on Sundays watching the polo club play on the grounds across from the beach playground. Camping here is popular with island families particularly during long holiday weekends. At state beach parks where camping is allowed, a permit is required.

Princeville, the next major stop as you travel further north, currently represents the upscale element on Kaua`i. Hotels, condos and vacation homes abound, and there are world-class golf courses. Enter at the massive fountain next to the highway. If you drive to the end of this road you will arrive at the hotel and get one of the best panoramic views of Hanalei Bay from an outlook in front of the hotel. Another place where a wonderful view is possible is at the Hanalei Bay Resort Hotel. Once you are in the area you can decide what you want to do; this guide can't begin to tell you of all the many possible different walking, eating, viewing activities you can enjoy here.

Ready to drive down to Hanalei? Before you do so, you might want first to view the valley from the outlook, a few yards after you exit from the Princeville resort; it's a view that is included in every calendar collection featuring Kaua`i. The vista from this outlook includes the fields planted in taro and the mountains beyond. The only vehicular access into Hanalei is via a one-lane bridge; when it rains excessively and the river overflows its banks, the bridge is closed. It has been decided that the bridge will be kept one lane to deter unmitigated development in the valley for there is no way to truck in heavy loads of construction equipment and material over it.

Hanalei is a welcoming and easygoing place. In the distance are green mountains and waterfalls running down the sharp, narrow, "vertical valleys"on the mountain faces, the whole serving as a backdrop to the taro fields and conservation forest. Rain clouds are often caught on the mountain peaks. Since becoming a popular tourist destination Hanalei town now has many restaurants. There also are shops selling jewelry, clothing, glass and ceramic art, and equipment for water sports. Several places rent equipment such as kayaks, surfboards, and boogey boards. Turn towards the ocean on almost any street, and you'll soon find access to the long sandy beach that rims Hanalei Bay. On the mauka side of the main street, behind the buildings fronting the street, are taro patches which have been tended by farming families for generations.

Continuing north out of the town, you'll feel that you've entered an Eden. This is the "real" North Shore: let the road take you over one-lane bridges, past beautiful beaches and trees. Enjoy Ha`ena Beach Park, a great snorkeling beach ("Tunnels," a snorkeling area can be accessed from here). Tour Limahuli Garden and Preserve which is a part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden, a not-for-profit organization. At Limahuli native species such as taro are preserved in terraced gardens. Continue until you hit the very end of the highway where you'll find Ke`e Beach, one of the best snorkeling places on the island, and perhaps the most spectacular setting from which to watch the sunset. The Kalalau trail takes off from Ke`e; you can stop at Hanakapi`ai Beach (which you could make your destination) before continuing into the valley. Be careful about crossing the river here for if it has rained in the valley water will come rushing down to sweep away the unwary. The entire Kalalau trail should only be tackled by seasoned hikers and only when the weather has been dry for several weeks. The maintenance of the trail has mostly been done by volunteers who realized how dangerous it had become in parts. From various high points on this trail, you can see the Napali coast unfolding. Boating tour companies make it possible for others to view the Napali coast in its splendor from the ocean. You can also view it from the air by helicopter.

The South Shore

Back in Lihu`e and heading south on Kaumuali`i Highway, the road is often lined by lush vegetation. Adding to this lushness are the vines, with yellow flowers in season, that hang from the trees and power lines. When the blossoms dry they'll turn brown and then be known as "wood roses" which may be used for decorative purposes. It may be hard to believe that this plant is a pest, an invasive species. In places along the highway there are different kinds of ginger flowers and beyond on both sides of the highway are acres of land that used to be planted in sugar cane. Kaumuali`i Highway takes you to the sunny South Shore area, where the sun is usually shining even when other parts of the island is experiencing rain or overcast skies. This weather phenomenon is also true of the West Shore.

Turning left from the highway at Maluhia Road ("tunnel of trees" road) you will be arriving at the former plantation town of Koloa. The tree tunnel was created with eucalyptus trees donated about a hundred years ago by one of the island's major plantation families, the McBrydes. Koloa was Kaua`i's first sugar plantation town and had a sugar mill. While the town had been restored to a level of cozy charm, it is now destined to be transformed again, this time to an upscale residential and resort area. Koloa becomes the Po`ipu area which is closer to the shoreline. Po`ipu is a major resort area boasting a luxury class hotel with a golf course where the PGA Grand Slam of Golf was held for several years, many vacation condo "villages," a mix of resident-occupied homes and vacation rentals, shopping centers with good restaurants, and a fine beach, Po`ipu Beach which headed Dr. Beach's list of America's Best Recreational Beaches in 2001.

Other named beaches in the area are Brennecke and Shipwrecks. The latter fronts the hotel and if you go just past the resort the paved road ends and if you turn onto a dusty, bumpy road, you will arrive at Maha`ulepu, which is a perfect area to spend a day walking the shoreline, hiking up Ha`upu, (remember the mountain you saw from the airport?), exploring the environment, taking in the beauty of the cliffs, lava formations, ironwood trees, and enjoying the wonderful beaches. Back in the populated area of Koloa, at the opposite end of the shoreline from Po`ipu, visit the Spouting Horn where wave action on an underwater lava tube results in a plume of water shooting into the air producing an exciting sight at frequent intervals.

Back on Kaumuali`i Highway (Hwy 50), you'll soon reach Kalaheo, another former plantation town. Now it's home to a popular public golf course, and has a mixture of both ordinary and upscale residences. On the outskirts of Kalaheo the landscape changes in an entirely unique way: acres and acres of cane fields, coffee trees, and open land mark the transition to the sunny, dry West Shore.

The West Shore

The rain doesn't often reach Kaua`i's West Shore, so it's drier, hotter and somewhat more barren than the rest of the island. You'll arrive first in Hanapepe, known as Kauai's "Biggest Little Town." As you approach the town, take the turnoff into historic Hanapepe, where you'll encounter a main street lined with art galleries. Friday night is art night, so that's a good time to enjoy the well-maintained galleries and shops. A stroll across the Hanapepe swinging bridge completes any daytime visit. Just at the edge of town, turn left from Kaumuali`i onto Highway 543 and drive out to Salt Pond Beach Park, where there is an area of salt beds which are flooded by seawater from wells; after the water evaporates the salt is mined by the same families who have obtained salt in this manner for generations. This highly valued "Hawaiian salt" is available only from these families and their friends. The swimming at the beach is safe any time of year.

Waimea town is the next stop along the main highway. A 27-foot obelisk memorializes the death of Captain James Cook who, in 1778, landed on Kaua`i-his first landing in Hawaii. The Waimea ("reddish water"from the red dirt of the area) River runs to the ocean at Waimea. (Swimming here isn't recommended due to the heavy river run-off.) When in Waimea, you might want to taste one of the local specialties, including poké, a wonderful dish made with chunks of raw fish or other seafood (including octopus), and seasoned with seaweed and spices. Try it! It's one of Kaua`i's delicacies.

From Waimea, you can either head further out the highway to Kekaha and Polihale, or go mauka on Waimea Canyon Road. If you decide to go out to Polihale State Park, you'll first drive through Kekaha, where the road runs right along the beach-it's a starkly beautiful area. At the Polihale turnoff, be prepared for a long, bumpy, and totally worth-it drive on a dirt road which leads to miles of pristine beach and views of the cliffs. The beach is wide and long, running for 17 miles from the Polihale cliffs back down to Waimea. The majestic cliffs are also the endpoint of the mountainous Napali coast, which wraps around from the north and ends here.

If you choose to view the Waimea Canyon, be prepared to have your mind blown. Known as "the Grand Canyon of the Pacific," it was formed by successive lava flows. The layering of the rock creates stunning striations reminiscent of Arizona's Grand Canyon. As you drive up the road, more and more of the canyon will come into view. You'll soon enter the Koke`e State Park where you can take advantage of the lookout points and many trails created by the state for visitors' pleasure. On your way into the park visit the Koke'e Museum for useful maps and displays about native and introduced plants and animals.

To close this tour, we will point you to the crowning glory of Kaua`i: Kalalau Valley seen from the Kalalau Lookout. From this vantage you'll view from above the valley which could be viewed from the sea or from ground level by those who hiked into it from the North Shore end. There are no words for the beauty you will absorb from this spot: unforgettable, just like Kaua`i itself. If, by chance, the valley is shrouded in mist when you first arrive, don't despair, don't leave just yet; after a few minutes, when the mists part, and the rays of sun touch the valley you will experience something magical. Note the flora and fauna: the `ohi`a trees and flowers, the `apapane (a Hawai`ian honeycreeper).