Coffee Times
No.73

Visitor Guide 2008

Oahu

Maui

Kauai

Past Articles

Flora & Fauna

Hawaiian Cuisine

Kona Coffee

History & Culture

Island Life

Religion, Myth & Legend

MAUI THE VALLEY ISLE

Welcome to Maui.
Maui is called the "Valley Isle" for the large fertile isthmus that separates mountains to the west and Mount Haleakala to the east as it slopes down to the ocean. These former shield volcanoes overlapped one another to form the valley in between them. The older western volcano has been eroded considerably cut by numerous gullies forming the peaks of the West Maui Mountains, with the highest of the peaks at 5,788 feet. Haleakala, the younger volcano to the east, rises to more than 10,000 feet above sea level, and more than five miles from the sea floor. The eastern sides of both volcanoes are cut by deep valleys and steep ravines running down to the rocky shoreline. As you travel around this island you'll be impressed by the varied terrain, plant life, fish, fauna, geology, and climate conditions. All of these factors make it a place where you can stroll along beaches, hike in a lush rain forest, play a full eighteen holes of scenic golf, snorkel alongside reef fish and sea turtles. When people think of Maui one of the things they think of is beaches, and the good news is...all beaches in Hawaii are public beaches and public access must be provided.

South Shore

Protea

The South Shore resort area boasts many vacation accommodations and offers activities such as fishing, whale watching, and the chance to play championship golf courses. But a tour of Maui's South Shore is really a beach tour, as it seems the sandy beaches never stop. This is the sunniest area on the island, protected by Haleakala from rain and clouds, and the nearly constant flow of fresh ocean air across the island produces a climate characterized by two seasons - warm and a little bit warmer. Add to that, water temperatures averaging around 74°F in the winter, which rise to a maximum of 80°F in summer, and you have the perfect playground for water sports of all kinds.

There are three distinct areas: Kihei, Wailea, and Makena. Kihei is a highly developed community with shopping centers, restaurants, parks, hotels, and condos which are all close to the water. Along the six-mile stretch of beach there are a number of attractive spots for sun bathing, swimming, picnicking, and many other water activities. Wailea is an upscale resort community with expensive homes, world class golf courses, five-star hotels, and some of the best beaches on the island. The hotels themselves are worth a tour for their stunning architecture and elaborately landscaped grounds. These resorts have made the beaches they front fairly accessible to the public, with parking areas, showers, and picnic tables, and since many hotel guests stay near their swimming pools, the beaches are relatively uncrowded. Just past Wailea are the beaches of Makena. This pristine coastline is a favorite of local people as well as adventurous visitors who love to swim, snorkel, bodysurf, or lie in the sun. Two of its beaches are Big Beach which is 100 feet wide and 3000 feet long, and Little Beach which can be found by walking over a small cinder cone at the right end of Big Beach.

Here are some highlights of other South Shore beaches. Kama`ole Beach Parks I, II, and III are at the south end of Kihei, all with facilities, picnic areas, calm waters, white sands, and lifeguards on duty to provide ocean info and safety. There is good snorkeling around the reef between the second and third beaches. Keawakapu Beach is a less-crowded beach where Kihei meets Wailea. Wailea's five crescent beaches cover almost two miles of coastline and offer safe swimming and good snorkeling at the lava outcroppings. Polo Beach is a nice long stretch of sand. Beyond Makena, you might want to check out Ahihi-Kina`u Natural Reserve, a lava outcropping and an underwater preserve which makes for great scuba diving. Further down the road is La Perouse Bay, a marine preserve area providing Maui snorkeling at its finest. On a calm day you are sure to see lots of fish and turtles. We can't leave the South Shore without mentioning Molokini, a crescent-shaped crater, an islet off the coast. You can boat there with one of the tour companies and you will see lots of fish, enjoy spectacular views, and have the feeling of being in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.

Maui is a leading whale watching center because many humpback whales winter in the sheltered channel off to the west. The whales migrate approximately 3,500 miles from Alaskan waters each autumn and spend the winter months mating and birthing in the warm waters off Maui. These whales are typically sighted in pods - small groups of several adults with one or more calves. There are estimated to be about 3,000 humpbacks in the North Pacific, and they are protected by Federal and Hawaii laws as an endangered species.

West Side

The West Side of Maui is a nearly circular peninsula dominated by the West Maui Mountains and connected to the main land mass by an isthmus on its southeast side. Once heavily planted in pineapple and sugar cane, the sunbathed leeward coast is now dominated by resorts, particularly Ka`anapali, Napili and Kapalua. The town of Lahaina with many maritime exhibits still celebrates its long, lively role as a whaling port. This historic whaling town blends history with present-day tourism by hosting an array of galleries, jewelry stores, and restaurants housed in its old buildings along Front Street. You can shop till you drop in Lahaina, or you can go for a more educational experience by taking in the historic spots that reveal the town's colorful past. Some highlights of a stroll through Lahaina are: Banyan Tree Park, a landmark for more than a century, is great place to escape the mid-day heat (lahaina means "merciless sun"); the Courthouse that was once a courthouse and prison, and now houses art galleries; the Heritage Museum; and, the visitor center. The small boat harbor is a fun place to walk around and is the launching spot for any number of ocean adventures. An authentic replica of an 18th century vessel serves as a museum of whaling with exhibits, videos, and artifacts. Other informative and cultural places you can visit by walking in town are a center where you can learn the story of whaling and see films of the birth of Hawaii, temples that provide a glimpse of what life was like for the Chinese who immigrated to Hawaii in the early 1800s, artifacts and old movies of Hawaii shot by Thomas Edison, and the largest bronze Buddha outside of Asia.

Ka`anapali

Beyond Lahaina are the beautiful beaches of Ka`anapali and Kapalua, major island resort developments. Here, the hotels themselves are great attractions with their waterfalls and tropical landscaping, and they also display collections of some of the world's finest art. Ka`anapali Beach is the center of action with sunbathers, windsurfers, and boaters all enjoying the water. Swimming and snorkeling in this area are spectacular. Ka`anapali offers four great resort hotels, a shopping center, good restaurants, and the Whalers Village Museum. Black Rock, in front of the Sheraton, is an all around fun beach with good swimming, great lounging, and fantastic snorkeling thanks to a huge lava outcropping that is loaded with coral and fish. Kahekili Beach Park, also known as Airport Beach, where the water is generally very calm, has a lot of facilities - parking, showers, rest rooms, picnic areas. Check out lovely Napili Bay which is great for kids. Kapalua Bay is an easy place to relax, with good snorkeling on the north side of the beach. Further north is Honolua Bay, a good place to snorkel when the water is calm. You can see coral formations and spotting a sea turtle (honu) is a good possibility. The Nakalele Blowhole often provides spectacular sights of water shooting 70 feet up in the air. Kahakuloa is a small fishing village at the end of the road. If the road is passable, you can go farther around the rugged coast for spectacular views of pounding surf, steep cliffs, and deep valleys.

With over 15 golf courses, including several world class ones, Maui can easily lay claim to be one of the world's premier golf destinations. Whether you're a lifelong player, or just a beginner, here you will enjoy the golfing experience of a lifetime (unfortunately, we're not guaranteeing scores here). The courses have countless panoramic views of the ocean and island scenery, and all are within an hour's drive of each other along a gorgeous tropical coastline. These courses offer virtually anything you'd want to find in an ultimate golf vacation. There are holes that run along the ocean, and holes that climb the volcanic slopes of Mt. Haleakala, and holes that open up to fantastic vistas of the Pacific Ocean and neighboring islands.

Central Plain

Central Maui includes Kahului, Wailuku, and adjacent residential areas, along with an airport, commercial harbor, Maui Community College, Maui Arts and Cultural Center, shopping centers, and historic buildings. Most people zip through central Maui on their way to and from the airport, but this area is well worth a tour. Beyond the strip malls and the developments that house a third of the island population there are noteworthy natural and historical sites. A visit to the `Iao Valley State Park should be a must on your list of things to do on Maui.

`Iao State Park

Here are some of Central Maui's highlights. Kanaha Pond Wildlife Sanctuary was once an ancient Hawai`ian fishpond that now is home to two indigenous birds, the Hawai`ian stilt and the Hawai`ian coot. Alexander and Baldwin Sugar Museum sits beside an operating sugar mill and has informative displays on the lives and living conditions of sugar plantation workers from the 1870s to modern times. The Maui Arts and Cultural Center adjacent to the community college provides a great venue for the performing arts including hula. Ka`ahumanu Church in Wailuku is built on the site where the first church services attended by Queen Ka`ahumanu were held in 1832. The present structure is a lovely building where Sunday service hymns are sung in the Hawai`ian language. Finally, there is the sacred `Iao Valley where at one time chiefs were buried Today it is a state park. This lush tropical valley is rich in plant life and clear water pools. As one of Hawai`i's most popular state parks, the trails here are paved so hiking is comfortable. The well-maintained paths take you into the valley, but to escape the present even further take the dirt paths up and explore nature amid the mists of this magical valley. There are some incredible volcanic rock formations, the most famous being the towering emerald peak, `Iao Needle, rising 1200 feet from the valley floor. There are many rare and native plants throughout the park, as well as scenic waterfalls, and spectacular views of the valley from the lookout.

Upcountry

For many visitors Maui will always be known for its resorts, fine beaches, snorkeling, whale watching, and the road to Hana. But a great way to see more of Maui is to drive through what is called "Upcountry." The drive starts at the town of Pa`ia, continues through Makawao, and Kula known for its flowers and vegetables, and ends at `Ulupalakua where you can sip a glass of Maui wine. Upcountry Maui first attracted ranchers and farmers who preferred the solitary rural life along the slopes of Mt. Haleakala. Now there are upscale restaurants, art galleries, specialty produce, arts festivals, and the Makawao Rodeo. The lush western slopes of the mountain are called Upcountry because it expresses both an area and a way of life. People here live a bit differently from those down below. They stoke their fireplaces at night to ward off the chill, grow cool weather crops such as lettuce, tomatoes, potatoes, and sweet onions. There are flower farms growing exotic protea, ranches manned by modern day paniolo (cowboys), and a vineyard that makes wines from grapes that thrive in the cool climate.

Haleakala (the House of the Sun) is at the heart of this area and offers a spectacular experience of varied landscapes, panoramic views, and the irresistible novelty of winter snow just a few hours away from the sunny coast. The moonscape-like lava rock formations in the crater, the 5 different climate zones of the mountain, and the aura of being on the largest dormant volcano on earth are awe-inspiring. The Haleakala National Park is 28,665 acres, and the road to the summit climbs nearly 10,000 feet in 38 miles. Visit this National Park and you will know you have traveled to a special place. The Haleakala Crater is 7 miles wide and 3000 feet deep; it will leave you breathless (or maybe that is just the change in altitude). It's best to see Haleakala early in the morning, preferably at sunrise when the sun rises over the rim, and before the clouds start to gather. Bring warm clothes, and a thermos of coffee because the morning air is quite cold at 10,000 feet. The adventurous may want to hike down into the crater on the Sliding Sands Trail which gradually descends several miles to the crater floor.

The park encompasses terrain that includes the crater, forests, desert, and tropical valleys. You can travel atop the highest peaks of Haleakala Crater and walk above the clouds or you can hike across richly colored landscapes, desolate deserts, and untamed wilderness. As the park stretches out to the coast nearer to sea level, you can even visit lush tropical areas full of waterfalls and streams. The 7-mile wide crater is actually a valley created by erosion by wind and rain and is strewn with small volcanic cinder cones formed during volcanic eruptions. It is also home to the famous but endangered silversword plant, a yucca-like plant with a huge flowering stalk. Many visitors come to see Haleakala's flora, fauna, and fabulous views, but others come just to experience the unique energy of the place. In ancient times, only kahuna (religious specialists) lived here, drawing from the volcano's power. Seeing the sunrise, the sunset, or the starry skies from the summit of Haleakala is an unforgettable experience.

Here are other highlights of an Upcountry tour. Outside of Pa`ia you will pass through pineapple fields before coming to Makawao, one of the last paniolo towns. Long before there were cowboys in the old American west, paniolos came to Hawai`i in the early 1800's from Mexico to teach the Hawai`ians how to herd cattle. Makawao is one of the few places on Maui that hasn't changed very much, although its old buildings now house some rather fashionable shops and galleries and a number of good restaurants. Cowboys still tie their horses to the hitching posts, and there are saddleries and feed stores; several rodeos are held during the year, the most popular on the Fourth of July. The drive from Pukalani to Kula will take you past some beautiful country with plenty of flowers everywhere. Kula (lit. plain) is the source of most of the island's produce. At an elevation of approximately 3000 feet, Kula produce includes sweet Maui onions, lettuce, tomatoes, potatoes, and goat cheese. There is an abundance of different floral varieties in this area, such as protea, orchid, hibiscus, and jade vines; dozens of different varieties of lavender grow and bloom abundantly in the months of June, July and August. Kula Botanical Gardens offers a nice hike through five acres of trees and flowering bushes including native koa and kukui trees. Polipoli State Park features groves of imported trees: eucalyptus, cypress, sugi pines, and redwoods. You can take a serene walk along the 1.7-mile Redwood Trail. Further Upcountry is Maui's only winery offering various wines made from local grapes.

The Road to Hana and Beyond

Sometimes referred to as the "road to heaven," the road to Hana is a journey like no other. Of all the places on all the islands, the road to Hana has the look and feel of unspoiled Polynesia, with lavish vegetation, empty beaches, secluded coves, remote valleys, and waterfalls flowing into exquisite pools. You will cross over 54 one-lane bridges, make the bend around 600 hairpin turns, pass next to numerous waterfalls and pools, and end up in a place where people are laid back and friendly. It is not the destination though that makes this an exciting adventure, but rather the journey getting there. Called the Hana Highway, this winding, narrow road follows the ins and outs of the coastline carved by streams and rivers and windward rains. The stops along the way make the road to Hana very special. This piece of Maui is a place where people still speak the Hawai`ian language, raise taro, offer homegrown fruits and flowers for sale along the road, and share the aloha. The legendary drive takes several hours to complete not just because of the narrow one-lane bridges or hairpin turns, but because this road leads you through landscapes of flourishing rainforests, flowing waterfalls, dramatic seascapes, and plenty of opportunities to stop along the way.

You should plan on spending a whole day on this trip. Ideally, a trip to Hana would be an overnight affair, and if you plan well in advance, there are some lovely accommodations. If you have only a day, plan to leave early in the morning. Here are some of the highlights along this memorable road. Pa`ia was a former plantation town when sugar was king; the windsurfing craze then brought thousands of the world's best windsurfers to nearby Ho`okipa Beach. There is now a colorful little village with vividly painted stores: art galleries, craft shops, and many restaurants, both offbeat and elegant. Ho`okipa Beach Park is one of the world's windsurfing and kitesurfing meccas. The waves are too rough for swimming but make for great aerial tricks by the talented riders, and is the site of the O'Neill International Windsurfing Championship held each spring. After passing through Ha`iku and the tiny villages of Huelo and Kailua, the road heads through denser tropical vegetation fed by frequent rains. Check out Waikamoi Ridge Nature Trail, a one-mile hike, and Puohokamoa Stream, with its waterfalls, pools and picnic tables. Comfort facilities are available just a bit further at Kaumahina State Wayside Park overlooking Honomanu Bay and the mind-blowing vistas of the Ke`anae Peninsula. A mile further is Honomanu Valley which stretches back five miles with 3000 foot cliffs and a 1000 foot waterfall. The villages of Ke`anae and Wailua are sparsely populated by Hawai`ians who tend their taro patches. The picturesque Coral Church in Wailua was built in 1860 of coral washed up on the beach. Further along are the Waikane Falls and a road that leads to another village, Nahiku. Wainapanapa State Park includes a black sand beach and a trail leading to some lava caves.

Once you arrive in Hana you'll have time to explore this peaceful town. Swim and sunbathe at Hana Beach Park. Or hike to the secret and isolated Kaihalulu Beach, also known as Red Sand Beach for its red cinder sand. Several miles beyond Hana is the ultimate tourist destination - the pools at `Ohe`o Gulch. This is at the lower end of the National Park and includes, pools overlooking the Pacific, a path through a bamboo forest, and up-close views of the 400-foot Waimoku Falls. If weather conditions make the road passable, you can continue around the island from here, but you'll need a 4-wheel drive vehicle, stamina, and a sense of adventure. The very rugged road takes you past a couple of lovely Hawaiian churches and then civilization ends for awhile until you find yourself Upcountry.

On Maui you will find varied terrain, plant life, fish, fauna, geology, and climate conditions. You will find more than 120 miles of beautiful shoreline, the world's largest dormant volcano, lush tropical forests, and world-famous golf courses all wrapped up in one amazing island for you to explore and enjoy.